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Ancient/Now

The IRAY Prize is a knitwear design competition for fashion and textile students across the UK and Europe, dedicated to the meeting point of heritage and innovation. We invite designers to explore the timeless character of Inner Mongolian cashmere through a contemporary lens. The theme challenges creators to bridge ancient craftsmanship and modern aesthetics. You bring the design, and we bring it to life in IRAY cashmere.

Who are you?

  • Fashion, textile and knitwear students at universities across the UK and Europe.

  • Emerging designers with a strong point of view and a curiosity about craft.

  • No finished garment needed. We're looking for your ideas.

The Brief

  • Theme: Ancient / Now. Explore how ancient craft and heritage can speak to contemporary design.

  • Work with IRAY's cashmere, sourced from Inner Mongolia, as your material.

  • Submit a design proposal for knitwear. If you're selected as a finalist, IRAY produces your two-three looks for you.

Submission & Judging

  • DESIGN BOOK (MAX. 15 PAGES)

  • THEME, INSPIRATION & COLOUR PALETTE

  • LINE-UP, SKETCHES & TECHNICAL FLATS

  • INTRO VIDEO (OPTIONAL)

What to Submit

  • FASHION, TEXTILE & KNITWEAR STUDENTS

  • NOMINATED BY PARTICIPATING INSTITUTIONS

  • UK & EUROPE

  • NO FINISHED GARMENT REQUIRED

Eligibility

  • ORIGINALITY

  • RESPONSE TO THEME

  • YARN USE

  • TECHNICAL FEASIBILITY

  • COMMERCIAL POTENTIAL

Judging Criteria

  • APPLICATIONS OPEN: 29 SEPTEMBER

  • DEADLINE: 31 OCTOBER

  • FINALISTS ANNOUNCED: 5 NOVEMBER

  • RUNWAY SHOW: MARCH 2027

Timeline

THE JURY

A distinguished collective of industry leaders and design experts dedicated to the preservation and evolution of the craft.

DANIEL GAYLE

DESIGN DIRECTOR & Co-Founder

Before launching his own label, Daniel built his career designing across the studios of Jonathan Saunders, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Kenzo, before spending six years at Victoria Beckham, where he gained deep experience shaping a brand's creative vision and running its business.

 

In 2021, Daniel co-founded Denzilpatrick with James Bosley — a London menswear brand named after his grandfathers, Denzil and Patrick, who emigrated to London from Jamaica and Ireland. Rooted in the city's eclectic culture and a strong sustainable ethos, sourcing pre-existing materials and low-impact techniques, the label has since shown at London Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo.

Carlo Volpi

Creative Director · MA Fashion Tutor, Royal College of Art

A knitwear designer and educator with over eighteen years' experience, Carlo oversees creative direction across colour, design, trend research and material development. He has collaborated with the Research Area at Pitti Filati in Florence, and his own knitwear label won first prize at Who Is On Next?, the competition promoted by Vogue Italia and Pitti Immagine. Alongside his industry practice, he teaches on the MA Fashion programme at the Royal College of Art.

Joomi Ha

Founder, JUUKIFF

Joomi Ha is a Seoul-born knitwear designer and founder of JUUKIFF, a label built around thoughtful material selection and considered manufacturing. She studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins in London, and during and after her studies gained experience at BLESS, HELEN LAWRENCE, ROKH, and CELINE before founding 

JUUKIFF in 2021.

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The brand is known for its use of WHOLEGARMENT® technology, creating seamless, low-waste knitwear that balances craftsmanship,structure, and quiet sensuality. JUUKIFF has since developed an international presence, and Joomi's approach—material-first, structurally rigorous, and unafraid of intimacy—brings a distinct perspective to the panel.

RORY LONGDON

CO-FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTO

A Nottingham Trent graduate, Rory won the prestigious Gold Award at Graduate Fashion Week in London, recognised for his collection's immaculate construction and craftsmanship. He was recruited by Max Mara and went on to work across Milan, New York, and Paris with fashion houses including Belstaff, Mugler, Valentino, and Ermanno Scervino. He now co-founds MRC Knitwear, a knitwear lab and manufacturing facility partnering with luxury brands worldwide.

Nan

Founder, Nan Knits

Nan studied Fashion Textiles: Knit at London College of Fashion, graduating with First-Class Honours, before continuing postgraduate studies at the Royal College of Art. In 2019, she founded Nan Knits, revitalising traditional knitting through a contemporary lens; the brand has since collaborated with names including Max Factor, Disney, MINI Cooper, and Bosideng, and won the Wallpaper Design Award and 10 Asian Designers to Watch. Nan currently teaches knitwear at the China Academy of Art and Donghua University.

The IRAY Prize

A knitwear design competition for fashion and textile students across the UK and Europe, at the intersection of ancient craft and contemporary design.

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29 September – 31 October 2026


Submit a design book of up to 15 pages responding to the theme Ancient / Now.

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1 – 5 November 2026


Our panel of five industry judges reviews every entry, and 15–20 finalists are announced on 5 November.

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November 2026 – January 2027


IRAY's production team makes each finalist's 2–3 looks in IRAY yarn. No garment making required.

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March 2027 · Shanghai or Shenzhen


Finalists' collections are shown to 300–500 guests, including buyers and press. Winners receive £2,000, £1,000 and £500.

FAQ

Do I need to make the garments myself?

No. You don't need to knit, sew or produce any garments at any stage of the competition.

At Stage 1, you only submit a design book, which is a written and visual application. No finished garments or samples are required. You're welcome to swatch with the IRAY yarns sent to your institution to develop your ideas, but this is optional.

If you're selected as a finalist, IRAY's production team will make your 2–3 looks for you. You provide the technical information we need: flats, colours, construction details and sizing. Our team then produces each piece in IRAY yarn, with full technical support, at no cost to you.

Who is eligible to apply?

The IRAY Prize is open to fashion, textile and knitwear students nominated by participating institutions across the UK and Europe.

Does every piece in a look have to be knitted?

No. Knitwear should be central to your look, but it can be paired with pieces in other materials, for example a knitted top with trousers in a different fabric.

How will the designs be judged?

The judging panel evaluates entries based on technical mastery, narrative depth, and the successful integration of ancient techniques with modern aesthetics.

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